Finger Lakes Redux: Beyond Riesling
 In another article posted here, I wrote about the world-class Finger Lakes’ Rieslings. I recently spent a few days driving around these scenic lakes visiting more wineries, talking with winemakers and tasting hundreds of wines. What I found was acres of thriving vines growing grapes often known only in this area. While Rieslings are outstanding -- and I tasted many -- the unusual varieties make interesting and often excellent wines at very affordable prices.
It was Dr. Konstantin Frank, a Russian immigrant, who introduced Vitis Vinifera grapes (European varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Riesling) to the Eastern U.S. in the 1950s. He established vineyards and a winery overlooking Keuka Lake. Before that, it was generally thought that these varieties could not survive the harsh winters. The grapes that were grown in the Finger Lakes to that point were either native American species such as Niagara, Catawba, Delaware or Concord, or hybrids (a cross between varieties of two different species) such as Seyval Blanc, Vidal Blanc, Cayuga White, Vignoles or Baco Noir.
These “American” grapes generally did not produce wines with the finesse of the European varieties, and they went through a period of consumer disinterest. Now, however, many of the Finger Lakes’ wineries are growing and producing wines from these varieties alongside the Rieslings, Cabernet Francs, Pinot Noirs, Chardonnays and Gewurztraminers. Their wines tend to be a bit sweeter and fruitier than the Vinifera wines, but on a warm day, a nicely chilled bottle is perfect for straight sipping or food-pairing. Vintage years 2006, 2005 and 2004 were all good, with ‘06 the best.
The vineyards and wineries tend to cluster along the shores of the three major lakes: Keuka, Seneca and Cayuga. It makes a great long weekend excursion to drive around them and stop at the wineries.
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Where to Eat
For a bit of historic flavor, have a drink on the deck of the log Seneca Lodge, at the entrance to Watkins Glen State Park. In Hammondsport, the Village Tavern is the place to go. They have an impressive wine list of local wines. On Seneca Lake, you will have an enjoyable meal on the deck of the Inn at Glenora’s Veraisons restaurant, overlooking the lake. A wonderful lunch spot is the Grist Mill Café in the small town of Burdett on the east side of Seneca Lake, where you can sit on the patio and watch doings at the Fire House. Organic ingredients and freshly made sandwiches, lemonade and iced tea are perfect. Try Red Newt Winery’s Bistro for dinner. On Cayuga Lake, don’t miss the Simply Red Bistro at Sheldrake Point Winery. It serves excellent lunch and dinner offerings and a prix fixe dinner that is $45 with wine pairings. You also can try a NY State artisan cheese plate.
Where to Stay
Black Sheep Inn B&B, Hammondsport/Keuka Lake (www.blacksheepinn.com ): Owners Marc Rotman and Debbie Meritsky, a professional chef, spent six years restoring this 1859 home to its original beauty. Five spacious bedrooms are each carefully decorated. Breakfast made by Ms. Meritsky is based on organic foods from the area and is especially nice when taken in the stone courtyard.
Inn at Glenora Wine Cellars (www.glenora.com ): On Seneca Lake, the Inn is just behind the winery and tasting room. Each room has a private patio and outstanding view of the lake. There also is a restaurant and bar. |
Keuka Lake
Dr. Konstantin Frank: A must visit. Try the Gewurztraminer and the Rkatsiteli, a red wine from a Russian grape. Sparkling wines have been a focus of the Franks and the Blanc de Blanc and Blanc de Noirs are fine by any standards. And, of course, have one or two of the award-winning Rieslings. (www.drfrankswine.com)
McGregor Vineyard: This winery offers some of the more unusual wines. Their Cayuga White, Sunflower white (Cayuga, Seyval, Diamond) and Thistle Blush (Rosette and Ives) all have some sweetness but nice acidity to balance it. In reds, the Black Russian may be one of the most unusual wines made. It is a blend of two eastern European grapes, Saperavi and Sereksiya Carni, grown on the estate. It’s full bodied with lots of acidity but also is sold out at the winery for now. The Highlands Red blend pairs Baco Noir and Chancellor and is soft in the mouth with full fruit flavor. Their late harvest Vignoles has tropical fruit and perfect acidity. (www.mcgregorwinery.com)
Lakewood Vineyards : Another trove of local varieties, including a dry Cayuga White called Carpe Vinum, a semi-sweet, blush, perfumey Delaware, and the Abby Rose made of Concord, Delaware, Vincent and Ives. The dry Long Stem Red is a rich, earthy blend of DeChaunac, Marechal Foch and Leon Millot. (www.lakewoodvineyards.com)
Seneca Lake
Glenora Wine Cellars: They have a Seyval Blanc that is fresh and soft. The crisp Alpine White is a blend of Cayuga and Chardonnay. The Gewurztramnier has lots of floral and spice notes. (www.glenora.com)
Atwater Vineyards: Their Vidal Blanc is green-apple crisp with a touch of sweetness. The Estate Red blends Marechal Foch with Cabernet Franc. Their Banana Belt label (the winery is located in a warmer spot) feature easy drinking blends including Cayuga, Niagara, Catawba, Chelois and Chancellor. (www.atwatervineyards.com)
Red Newt Winery: Try the Salamander White, blending Pinot Gris, Seyval and Vidal for a refreshing dry white, or the Red Newt White with Vidal Blanc and Cayuga. They are making a nice Syrah, which is beginning to show up in more vineyards here. The Tierce dry Riesling is made by three winemakers from three vineyards. (www.rednewt.com)
Lamoreaux Landing Wine Cellars: All grapes are grown on the estate, where some of the vines are over 100 years old. The super-modern winery and tasting room afford panoramic views of the lake. Their brut sparkling wine (Pinot Noir and Chardonnay) is luscious and rich. Both the Chardonnay and the Reserve Chardonnay are rich and full-flavored. The Gewurztraminer tastes of tropical flowers and citrus fruit and the Vidal Ice wine is a perfect balance of fruit and acidity. (www.lamoreauxwine.com)
Cayuga Lake
Sheldrake Point Vineyard: They make mainly Vinifera-based wines, but do have a couple of value-priced blends—a white and a rose that include Cayuga White. The Gewurztraminer is a classic, with lychee and white flower aromas. Of reds, I particularly liked the Cabernet Francs and the dry Gamay. The ice wines made from Cabernet Franc is concentrated and full of fig and prune flavors. (www.sheldrakepoint.com)
For more information on Finger Lakes wine country: www.fingerlakeswinecountry.com or (800) 813-2958
—by Patricia Savoie
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