Barging Through Burgundy
Summer is vacation time. When one is a wine and foodie, vacations usually revolve around…wine and food. One of my ultimate w&f experiences was in France: a six-day barge cruise on the Esprit through the canals and rivers of northern Burgundy -- the Cote d’or area -–literally the Gold Coast of wines. The Esprit is part of the 5 boat fleet of French Country Waterways (www.fcwl.com), and it floats its way through narrow canals and locks at a blazing 6 mph, docking at night in towns like Chalone, Chagny, Seurre, and Dijon.
Burgundy has always set the standard for wines made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes. But, because of the complexity of its vineyard ownership and naming laws, it is also one of the most difficult areas to understand. In Bordeaux, for example, if you are drinking a Chateau Montrose, you are drinking the only Ch. Montrose in Bordeaux. In Burgundy, drinking a Clos de Vougeot could mean you are drinking one of 60 or so different Grand Cru wines.
The easy part is that in general, if it’s a red Burgundy from the north, it’s a Pinot Noir, and if it’s white, a Chardonnay (only a few exceptions). And, Burgundy may be the best place for the wine drinker to experience the meaning of “terroir” (how the grape reflects the conditions of its specific piece of land: the type of soil, weather, sun, slope, elevation). Move even a few yards, and you have a different wine.
During the six-day meander aboard the Esprit, I and my 17 fellow “bargistes” were served meals made by a resident chef that were the equal of any one-star Michelin restaurant (sometimes two). He shopped every morning at the markets in the little towns where we moored. Two top quality wines and three sublime cheeses at every lunch and dinner would please even the most demanding gourmand. The barge went through more locks than Fort Knox, so it was easy to hop off and walk off lunch on the tow path, then hop back on at the next lock. Or, you could take a bicycle from the deck. The crews on all the barges are English speaking, as are most of the passengers.
Following are reviews of some of the fine wines we sampled either on the barge or at special tastings at vineyards along the way.
~ Riesling “Zotz” from Albert Seltz 1997: From Alsace, this was one of the favorite whites of the “bargistes.” Nice deep gold color. Age gives it a lovely complexity. Crisp with good acidity.
~ Clos de Vougeot, Grand Cru Chateau de La Tour 2001: The only vineyard that grows, vinifies and bottles its wine inside the walls of the Clos. Very concentrated with good tannins and acidity. Earthy, with mint and floral tones.
~ Beaune 1er Cru Clos du Roi 1997 Domaine Louis Jadot (part of a special dinner at restaurant Lameloise along the way): A beauty. Strong red berry nose and full Pinot flavor. Excellent balalnce and acidity.
~ Beaune 1er Cru Domaine Pierre Labet “Coucherias” 2001: Strong raspberry, cherry and floral nose. Concentrated. Soft. Good acidity. Can age another 5 years.
~ Irancy 2000 from Rene & William Charriat: From the Chablis area, this unusual red is a blend of 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Cesar a fairly tannic red grape that gives body and aging ability. Nice berry fruit with a dry finish.
~ Chassagne Montrachet “Morgeot” 1er Cru Domaine Prieur-Brunet 2002: The 2002s are still young, but this one was deep red in color with light raspberry furit and good acidity/tannin balance. Should develop nicely.
By Patricia X Savoie
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