Of Wine and Popes…Chateauneuf-du-Pape
 In France, just north of Avignon on the banks of the Rhone River, you can see thousands of acres of old, gnarled grapevines sprouting from terrain covered with large rounded stones. The area is Chateauneuf-du-Pape (literally “the new castle of the Pope”) and the village of the same name is at its heart. Looking at the moon-like land and the stark vines, you just know that these vineyards must produce great wine. They do.
In the 1300s, Pope Jean XXII chose the area for his summer residence, among the grapevines and the stones. But for centuries, the fact that wine was made there was a well-kept secret. By the 18th century, however, Chateauneuf had gained a reputation for its wines. In 1929, the wine was officially recognized and granted the appellation Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
I love this wine, often referred to as CdP, because it is a true reflection of its place (terroir). Its raspberry and red cherry fruit aromas and tastes, strong hints of garrigue (low shrub bushes, such as aromatic lavender, thyme and rosemary), spice, earth and its complexity make it intriguing, opulent and sensuous. With up to 13 grapes allowed (some of them white), it is the ultimate blend.
The 13 varieties [in case you’re dying to know, they are Grenache (white and red), Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Muscardin, Cournoise, Clairette (w), Bourboulenc (w), Picpoul (w), Roussanne (w), Terret Noir, Picardan (w), Vaccarese] are seldom all used in one wine. Chateau de Beaucastel is one of the few wineries that use all 13 varieties, while Chateau Rayas uses only one – Grenache. Most winemakers include only four or five types, and Grenache usually predominates. Less than 10% of wine produced is white.
Wine critic Robert M. Parker, Jr. has been given a lot of credit for the growth in popularity of CdP wines. Before he “discovered” them, Chateauneuf’s wines were a bit rustic and were not widely imported into the US. Parker encouraged upgrading of the wines and his endorsement has resulted in a quadrupling of the price of CdP over the past 10 years. In fact, some Chateauneuf winemakers even proposed he be made an honorary village citizen. Now, the United States alone imports over 200,000 cases a year of CdP wines.
CdPs are food wines. They pair well with red meat, roasts, venison, grilled meats, game, duck with olives, and hard or soft cheeses.
The production of CdP is highly regulated. By law, yields of grape juice (gallons per acre) are the lowest in France. Grapes must be harvested by hand and wineries must eliminate at least 5 percent of their crop, insuring that the wines are made from the best grapes.
The Chateauneuf wine regulators at one point became a source of amusement for the international wine community. They passed a law in the mid-1950s that “flying saucers” or “flying cigars” are prohibited from flying over or landing in the vineyards. Should such vehicles actually land, they will be arrested. This gave rise to disbelief, laughter and satire. Bonny Doon winery in California introduced a Rhone-style wine called “Cigare Volante” (Flying Cigar), which is still produced.
Traditionally made Chateauneuf-du-Pape is tannic and full-bodied-- designed to age a few decades or more--and expensive. But lighter, less expensive styles are being made for earlier drinking, including wines from Louis Bernard and Jean-Luc Colombo.
Vintages from 1998-2004 are all good quality. Leading wineries include: Chateau de Beaucastel, Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe, Domaine de Villeneuve, Chateaus Rayas, Chateau Mont-Redon and Chateau Fortia.
There are excellent CdPs to be had at lower price points ($30-40). Clos de l’Oratoire des Papes has lots of red fruit, licorice and floral notes. Domaine des Relagnes has cherry and floral hints and some gamey and garrigue flashes. Vieux Telegraphe, Chateau Fortia and Jaboulet make some good value CdP. A wine I favor is Le Vieux Donjon--both red and white. The red is full of the garrigue, berry and plum notes. It needs about five years of age before drinking but can last 20 or so years. Felicien Diffonty & Fils Cuvee du Vatican has hints of lavender and spice over the red raspberries.
Wine grower and poet Frédéric Mistral captured the character of the wine. He bottled his CdP with a poem on the label which translates:
“The wine from Chateauneuf brings courage, melody, love and joy.”
By Patricia X Savoie
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