New York State of…Riesling
 Amid the rolling hills of the central plateau of New York State lie ten long slashes of pure blue water…like scratches from a tiger’s claws. They are deep and cold; in fact, they were formed by glaciers during the last Ice Age. These are the Finger Lakes. They would be worth a visit even if they didn’t produce some of the world’s best Riesling wines.
Yes, the world’s best. There are three stellar areas for Riesling: Germany’s Rhine and Mosel regions, Alsace in France, and the Finger Lakes. The Riesling grape grows best in very cold climates and rugged, mineral soils. The aroma of the wine it makes is often floral and spicy, and the tastes most often associated with it are apricot and peach. It ranges from very dry to very sweet.
The Finger Lakes make more wine than any other area in New York State. There are about 80 wineries, most located along the shores of Lake Cayuga, Seneca and Keuka. Wine has been made in this area for decades. Remember Great Western and Gold Seal sparkling wines? But in the past 10 years, dozens of new wineries have spring up and several are producing fine Rieslings.
In order to understand Riesling, you have to understand sugar and acidity. Sugar is an essential component in the production of wine. During alcoholic fermentation, yeast feeds on the sugar found in grape juice and converts it to alcohol and carbon dioxide. The amount of sugar fermented determines the wine’s alcohol level and the amount of residual sugar (RS) left in the wine. So, the lower the RS, the higher the alcohol and vice-versa. And the higher the RS, the sweeter the wine.
Even a dry wine contains a small amount of sugar, which most people may not even notice. Residual sugar can be expressed in grams per liter or as a percentage of volume. Dry wines are typically in the 0.2–0.3% range, off-dry wines (a touch of sweetness) in the 1.0–5.0% range and sweet wines in the 5.0–15% range.
Acidity, the tart, refreshing feeling that causes the mouth to water, comes from the grape. Acidity, which may not be listed on the label, is expressed in grams-per-liter or as a percentage of volume. Acidity acts to balance sugar, so that even a wine with high sugar levels will be perceived as being dry. Riesling is a high acid, high sugar grape.
Riesling pairs well with a broad range of foods: fish, shellfish, poultry, foie gras, pastas in cream sauces, spicy foods, Asian dishes, creamy cheeses. Its acidity balances richness and spice in foods.
I was fortunate to attend a tasting of some of the top Rieslings a few weeks ago. They ranged from RS levels of 0.3% up to 19.8%! Here are my notes on some of the outstanding ones, from less to more RS.
Dry (RS up to 0.3%)
◊ Ravines 2004 (RS 0.3%): Lots of acidity makes this linger in the mouth. Floral nose with citrus and mineral flavors. $16
Off Dry (RS 1.0 to 5.0%)
◊ Swedish Hill Vineyard 2004 (RS 0.5%): Crisp but a slightly soft acidity. Floral and citrus aromas and flavors. $15
◊ Glenora Wine Cellars 2004 (RS 1.2%): Some grassy and exotic floral aromas. Tastes of apricots and peaches. Acidity makes it seem bone dry. $14
◊ Dr. Konstantin Frank Dry Riesling 2005 (RS 1.4%): Sweet lime and exotic foral notes. Soft texture. Fruity. $18
◊ Casa Larga Vineyards 2005 (RS 1.8%): Citrus, pear, melon in the aroma. Crisp. Pear and melon tastes. Good acid balance. Soft texture. $16
◊ Lamouroux Landing Wine Cellars semi-dry 2004 (RS 2.7%): Unusual aromas of pink peppercorn and mustard seed. Full bodied, with flavors of peach and pineapple. Full bodied. $13
◊ Rooster Hill Vineyards semi-sweet 2003 (RS 2.25%): A sweet nose with ripe apricot and peach and honey accents. Balanced by acidity so it is not overly sweet or cloying. $13
◊ Atwater Estate Vineyards semi-dry 2004 (RS 2.5%): Full bodied with crisp, bright aromas and flavors. Spiced apple and apricot. Lingering honey and mineral notes. $15
Sweet (RS 5.0 to 15%)
◊ Heron Hill Late Harvest 2004 (RS 9%): Honeysuckle and honey in the aroma and honey and pineapple in the mouth. Will be great with a dessert or cooky. $36
◊ Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard Select Late Harvest 2003 (RS 13%): The fruit was left on the vine until it was attacked by noble rot (botrytis) that creates the most regal sweet wines. Floral and honey in the nose and a great balance of fruit and acidity. $29 half bottle
◊ Sheldrake Point Vineyard Ice Wine 2004 (RS 19.8%): The grapes were left on the vine until they were frozen. These were actually grown in 2003 but harvested in January 2004. This is a classic Ice Wine. Full of honey notes and ripe fruit flavors. But acidity keeps it balanced. $60 half bottle
By the way, if you can find it, one of my favorite Alsatian Rieslings is Lucien Albrecht. His son, Jean, makes a full range of dry-to-sweet wines, including a couple of single vineyard offerings (Clos Himmelreich and Clos Schild) that are outstanding.
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Where to Stay and Eat in the Finger Lakes
Taughannock Farms Inn (on Lake Cayuga)
2030 Gorge Road
Trumansburg, NY 14886
(607) 387-7711
www.t-farms.com
The Inn was built in 1873 as a private, summer residence. Many of the original furnishings have been retained. On a hill overlooking Lake Cayuga, the tiered porch offers a wide view of the lake while dining at the restaurant. It is about a 40 mile drive to the eastern shore of Seneca Lake, where many of the fine Riesling producers are located.
The Inn at Glenora (on Lake Seneca)
5435 Route 14
Dundee, NY
(607) 243-9500
www.glenora.com
To visit the wineries on the West shore of Seneca Lake, the Inn at Glenora is best situated. Veraisons restaurant is part of the Inn, and the Glenora Wine Cellars is a short walk up the hill.
By Patricia X Savoie
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